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Arctic Adventure



Tuktoyaktuk, Northwest Territories, Canada


The next day, we reached our final destination and were greeted by the townspeople of Tuktoyaktuk dressed in the popular apparel of wolverine skin jackets. Visitors are rare, and word had traveled fast. They were a friendly bunch who immediately offered us beer, beds, and cab rides.


Our absurdly priced “house” for the night came complete with a full internal water system. The permafrost makes buried pipes impossible, thus water is delivered weekly and stored inside for domestic needs. We had just sat down to take it all in when there was a knock on the door. It was the cab driver inviting us for beers in her boyfriend’s garage. Having no other plans, we agreed. After a night of beer and kokanees (salmon) and a hilarious but freezing trek home at 2 a.m., we hit our beds for the night.


The next day we were treated to raw whale cubes served with Heinz 57® steak sauce, homemade doughnuts, and reindeer stew. It was awesome ... and odd – just like Tuktoyaktuk!


On the way back, Brian flew out of Inuvik to New York City, leaving the three of us to return the cars. Another friend joined us in Whitehorse to help drive back to Oregon. Altogether, our 6,000-mile round-trip journey took 17 days to


Lars Gange usually graces the pages of this magazine with his photography rather than his written word. Besides images of Subaru Rally Team USA, he has photographed the subjects of a number of other articles as well. 


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