The gauge's parts kit has everything needed to install the boost gauge. The work involved tapping into the intake system's air bypass valve as well as the electrical system. Holes had to be drilled into the dash to mount the gauge.
Hetzel began the boost gauge installation under the hood. He removed the hose from the air bypass valve, then he removed the intercooler.
He then popped off a plug from the fire wall behind the intercooler and cut a hole through the insulation on the other side. Hetzel then routed the installation kit's vacuum hose through the hole in the fire wall and into the cabin and replaced the plug with a grommet.
After cutting the original hose near where it fits onto the valve and installing a T-fitting, Hetzel reinstalled the intercooler. The added hose fit onto the T-fitting.
Inside the car, Hetzel removed the hood over the instrument panel. Using a template included with the installation kit, he drilled two mounting holes on the hood and fixed the mounting bracket to it.
Hetzel had to remove the instrument panel, the dashboard's side panel, the dimmer-switch panel, the radio and tuner, and the clock. He brought up the hose from the fire wall and located it behind where the instrument panel would be reinstalled.
He connected the wiring harness to the dimmer and the clock connector, then reassembled the clock and assorted switches and panels as well as the radio/navigation system's tuner and trim.
The wiring and vacuum hose came up from behind the instrument panel's hood. Hetzel connected them to the gauge. He slid the cup that surrounds the gauge over it and the holding strap over the cup, then he connected the strap to the mounting bracket.